Process
Curious about the process of commissioning a piece of custom furniture or designing a kitchen with us?
Before our meeting
We recommend that all of our clients keep a scrapbook, Pinterest board, or Houzz ideabook filled with inspiration. Have your photos collected for our meeting.
Initial Consultation and Estimate
We’ll discuss styles, design elements, wood species and finishes in our first meeting. If you are interested in working with reclaimed wood or slabs, we can tell you what we currently have available in our inventory. Should measurements need to be taken, we will make an appointment to meet with you and your design professional after the initial consultation at no charge. Within a few days of our initial consultation, we will present a written estimate and either a take a retainer for additional design development or submit a contract for your review.
Design Development
The next step is to refine the design with drawings and samples. When the shop drawings and samples receive your signed approval, your furniture or cabinetry will be entered into our production queue. Estimated delivery dates are generally within eight to twelve weeks of final approval. We require a deposit of sixty percent of the total project price at the time the contract is signed for furniture and smaller pieces. For larger projects such as kitchens, baths, and yacht remodels, we will review your payment options with you at our meeting.
Fabrication
Once your piece of furniture or cabinetry is being built, we may ask you or your design professional to visit our studio to ensure that the piece is meeting your expectations. If visiting is not convenient, we can update you by e-mailing digital photos. When the project is completely assembled, but has not yet been finished, we will ask you to visit and give your final approval of the fabricated and assembled piece. At this time, we require a payment of thirty percent of the project cost prior to finishing for smaller items such as furniture and small cabinets. For larger projects, such as kitchens, baths, and yacht remodels, your payment options may differ.
Finishing
Depending on the finish that is applied, it may take as many hours to finish a piece as it does to fabricate it. When the furniture or cabinet is finished, we require final approval prior to delivery or installation. At this time the final ten percent payment is due if there is no installation and we will make arrangements to deliver your furniture or cabinetry. Should the piece involve installation, we will request your approval of the staged piece at our studio and the final ten percent will be due upon completion of installation. For larger projects, such as kitchens, baths, and yacht remodels, your payment options may differ. Kodama’s warranty is issued when the project is complete.
Services
Kodama offers design | build services working in concert with your design professional or builder.
Complimentary consultations
After your initial consultation at our studio, we will provide your design professional with an accurate estimate and a schedule and take any measurements on-site at no charge to you.
Drafting
See your project in a full three dimensional render. Kodama offers full CAD drafting services, and we regularly work from sketches, transforming them into clear construction drawings.
Fabrication
Our master craftsman has worked with metal, glass, and rare tropical hardwoods such as makore, zebrawood, rosewood, and sapele. We hand select hardwoods and veneers to ensure color and grain matching in our woodwork.
Finishing
Our full service finishing includes specialty finishes such as full-filled polyester finishes and automotive finishes. We offer custom color matching as well.
Installation
Our licensed installation team works hard to make sure the job is done right the first time. We provide regular progress updates and a weekly walk-through of larger projects.
Wood
Browse a selection of domestic and exotic hardwoods used in our furniture, cabinetry, and millwork.
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American CherryPrunus serotina American Cherry, native to North America, produces a stable, straight, closed grained wood, although some pieces may be figured. The heartwood is a characteristic light pinkish brown when first cut, but cherry darkens over time and with exposure to light, changing to a reddish brown color. As its durable heartwood is resistant to decay, American Cherry may be used in exterior applications, although this is not common. American Cherry was widely used in Early American furniture and remains a popular choice today. |
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American ChestnutCastanea dentata American Chestnut, native to forests in the Eastern United States, is now a rare wood available reclaimed or as a veneer. It has a coarse, uneven textured, open grain that may be straight to spiraled or interlocked. Chestnut is durable and may be used outdoors. More than 3 billion chestnut trees died in the early 1900s Chestnut Blight. Although the trees were subsequently damaged by insects, they were later harvested. This wood, available reclaimed, is referred to as “wormy chestnut” and is often used for furniture. |
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Eastern Red CedarJuniperus virginiana Eastern Red Cedar, also know as Aromatic Red Cedar, bears distinctive reddish or violet brown heartwood that may be streaked with the pale yellow sapwood. This species is distributed throughout Eastern North America. The grain is straight and the wood has a fine even texture, although knots are frequently present. This species has excellent resistance to both decay and insect attack and is used in cedar chests and closets to repel moths. These characteristics make it ideal for outdoor furniture. |
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Eastern White PinePinus strobus Among the pines, Eastern White Pine is a “soft” pine that is lightweight with a fine, uniform texture, straight grain, and low resin content. This species is native to Eastern North America. The heartwood is light brown, sometimes reddish brown, and turns darker when exposed to air. The heartwood of this species is moderately resistant to decay. With its moderate price and fine texture, pine is a popular choice for casual indoor furniture. |
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White OakQuercus alba A strong, beautiful Eastern North American wood species with a straight and open grain, white oak is widely used for furniture and cabinetry. Its appearance alters depending on how it is cut, with quartersawn veneer exhibiting a ray like pattern that is quite desirable. The wood itself is durable and rot resistant, but tends to shrink, making climate control important if you have solid oak furniture or cabinetry. White oak also may react with iron to produce staining. |
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Northern Red OakQuercus rubra An Eastern North American wood species with a straight and very open grain, red oak is nearly ubiquitous in American homes. Its appearance alters depending on how it is cut, with quartersawn veneer exhibiting a ray like pattern. Red oak heartwood tends to be light to medium brown with a reddish cast. The wood itself is hard and strong, but not rot or insect resistant. Like white oak, red oak may react with iron and also tends to shrink, making climate control important if you have solid oak furniture or cabinetry. |
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Black WalnutJuglans nigra Gorgeous black walnut, native to Eastern North America, is a premium domestic hardwood. The heartwood of is light brown to chocolate brown with darker streaks and the sapwood is a much lighter cream color. Burls, crotches, and curls are also seen in black walnut. Black walnut is strong wood with good stability and a straight open grain. Although resistant to decay, it is not insect resistant. The wood is very popular in furniture and cabinetry but carries a higher price tag than other domestic hardwoods. |
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Common YewTaxus baccata A flexible yet very strong and durable wood that is resistant to both decay and insect damage, Common Yew is rarely used today due to its high price tag. Common Yew, which is native to Europe and SW Asia, is difficult to find in hardwood widths needed for large applications; veneer is more common. The wood is an orangey brown, but tends to darken with age. The grain is straight and fine textured. Yew burl (or burr) is exceptionally beautiful and there are many outstanding antiques made from this lovely wood. |
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TeakTectona grandis Native to southern Asia, Teak is now grown on plantations throughout tropical Asia, Africa, and Central America; yet it remains high priced. The wood is dimensionally stable and resistant to decay and termites, although it may be attacked by other insects. It varies in color from a tawny yellow to a green or dark brown. Its straight open grain is coarse and uneven in texture. Teak is widely used on boats and in outdoor furniture, where its stability and durability are prized. Beware imitations! So-called Brazilian Teak and Rhodesian Teak are not the same species. |
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ZebrawoodMicroberlinia brazzavillensis A stunning wood often used as a veneer on small decorative pieces or furniture, Zebrawood has a light or cream colored ground with dark brown streaks. The wood is durable and resistant to insect damage, with a fairly coarse texture and a closed wavy or interlocked grain. Native to West Africa (Gabon and Congo), where its range has declined precipitously over the past several decades, Zebrawood is listed as ‘Vulnerable’ on the IUCN redlist. We discourage the use of this wood species at this time. |
Fabrication
We offer both conventional and heirloom construction in our furniture and cabinetry.
Conventional construction
We use conventional construction techniques on most of the pieces crafted in our shop. Modern fasteners – screws, for example – cut down production time and lower the cost of custom crafted pieces. In a piece constructed using conventional techniques we use sheet products such as plywood for cabinet boxes and apply any veneers over plywood. For painted surfaces we use paint grade woods and some painted surfaces – at the request of the builder – may be MDF. Conventional pieces all use concealed soft closing hinges and undermount drawer slides from Blum. Our standard drawer boxes are a half-blind dovetailed box.
Heirloom construction
In heirloom pieces, design and construction work together to highlight the beauty of the wood and techniques used. We use only mortise and tenon and peg joinery, dovetails, half-laps and other age-old construction techniques and the highest quality FAS hardwoods. No sheet products and no modern fasteners are used. Hinges may be concealed modern hardware at your request, such as a knife hinge in brass, or reproduction butt hinge if that is more appropriate. We integrate wood slides – a complicated process that must allow for expansion and contraction of the wood. While more costly than conventional construction due to the time our craftsmen spend working on the piece, the result is a true heirloom deserving of the care of your family for generations to come.
Finishes
Fine finishes enhance and protect your fine furniture, cabinetry, and millwork.
Conversion varnish
Our standard finish is a beautiful and durable conversion varnish finish that can easily take the heat and humidity in your kitchen and bath, or the daily wear and tear of your dining room table top. Resistant to moisture, solvents, stains, and heat, this finish will stand up to vinegar and ketchup, and vodka and nail polish will not mar it. The finish is flexible, so it will move with the expansion and contraction of the wood used to craft your furniture or cabinetry. Stiffer finishes can develop cracking or crazing when the wood beneath them expands or contracts. Conversion varnish has a good finish clarity and is resistant to yellowing over time. In terms of its quality, it is similar to a polyester finish, but at a fraction of the price. Our conversion varnish is formaldehyde free, HAPs free, and GREENGUARD certified.
Colors and stains: Stock colors and stains. Custom colors available.
Fills: Open grain and full filled
Sheens: Matte, Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss
Lacquer
When a lacquer finish is required, we use a durable postcatalyzed lacquer. Like the conversion varnish finish we use, postcatalyzed lacquer is resistant to stains, heat, and household chemicals, and moves with the expansion and contraction of the wood substrate, an important consideration here in South Florida. Postcatalyzed lacquer has excellent finish clarity, but is slightly more prone to yellowing over time than conversion varnish.
Colors and stains: Stock colors and stains. Custom colors available.
Fills: Open grain and full filled
Sheens: Matte, Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss
Polyester
A difficult finish to apply, polyester is better known in the yacht industry where it is used on everything from millwork to furniture. Because of the manner in which it is applied, polyester is always a full-filled finish with an impressive glass smooth surface and a high price tag. One of the most durable finishes we apply, it has outstanding moisture resistance, but little flexibility, which means that climate control is very important. Contraction and expansion of wood surfaces can cause crazing and cracking in polyester finishes. With exceptional finish clarity and resistance to yellowing over time, polyester is an impressive finish for special pieces.
Colors and stains: All stock colors and stains. Custom colors available.
Fills: Full filled
Sheens: Gloss
Automotive finish
An unusual finish choice, but one that is becoming more popular especially with contemporary cabinetry and furniture, an automotive finish is exceptionally durable and non-yellowing. The finish is applied over a fill coat. It is smooth and can be buffed whether the sheen is matte or gloss. While a filled or gloss finish can be achieved using other products, the appeal of an automotive paint finish is the metallic and pearlescent finishes that are available.
Colors and stains: All stock colors and stains. Custom colors available.
Fills: Full filled
Sheens: Matte, Satin, Semi-Gloss, Gloss
Marine grade finishes
For certain exterior applications, we recommend using a marine grade finish, such as a varnish or a polyester-based finish that has been developed specifically for exterior use. In general, these products are designed to be lightfast and may contain additional UV protection for wood furniture and cabinetry that is outside the home. Several offer excellent protection from moisture and are resistant to chemicals, which may be important if your piece is sitting poolside.
Colors and stains: All stock colors and stains. Custom colors available. (product dependent)
Fills: Open grain or Full filled (product dependent)
Sheens: Matte, Satin, Semi-Gloss, Gloss (product dependent)
Earth friendly finishing options
Many of the products we use are already formaldehyde and HAPS free and low VOC. We also offer waterborne finishes. Unlike standard finishes that use a solvent to keep a product liquid until applied, a waterborne finish is water, not solvent based. While these products lessen impacts to human health and the environment, they still contain some solvents. Dry times and application can be a challenge here in humid South Florida and, for this reason, a waterborne finish is more expensive than a solvent based finish. In general, today’s waterborne finishes are comparable in durability and finish clarity to their solvent based counterparts. We also apply natural finishes such as oils (Danish oil, tung oil) and shellac.
Care
Maintain your furniture, cabinetry, and millwork whether indoors or out by giving it the care it needs.
Indoors
Oil-rubbed finishes require reapplication every 6 months or so. Application of a paste wax in between is recommended.
Modern wood finishes – lacquers, conversion varnish, polyurethanes, epoxies, polyesters – do not need to be polished, oiled, or waxed. Use of such products on these finishes can leave a residue that can make repair, if needed, more difficult.
Use a soft lint free cloth to dust finishes regularly as dust can act as a mild abrasive that will dull the finish over time. For any surface that requires more intensive cleaning such as a dining table or kitchen cabinetry, we recommend a spray bottle with water and a drop or two of a mild soap, such as Ivory. Spray on and immediately wipe dry. Do not use any abrasive, chemical, or ammonia based cleaners. Even commercial products that are specifically made for wood can cause the finish to fail.
Keep your wood furniture, cabinetry, and millwork out of direct sunlight, which will cause the wood to change color over time. Certain woods, like walnut, are more susceptible to this process. Wood should also be kept away from high heat from cooking surfaces or lighting. To prevent swelling of the wood, which can damage the joinery in your furniture or cabinetry, avoid large changes in humidity. In South Florida, climate controlled relative humidity in the interior of your home should remain between 43 and 70% to preserve the wood pieces in your home. Wipe dry any spills that may occur on any wood surface immediately. Do not let moisture sit on the surfaces of furniture, cabinetry or millwork. Avoid impact damage to the wood or the finish -pay special attention to trim.
Outdoors
The woods most commonly used for outdoor furniture – such as teak, mahogany, and redwood – are generally resistant to decay and insect damage. When left unfinished, these woods all weather to a silvery grey color, generally within 6-12 months. Care for your unfinished outdoor wood furniture is generally similar to caring for indoor wood furniture.
To clean unfinished outdoor wood furniture, brush any debris off the surface and rinse. Clean with a mix of water and mild dish soap, using 1/4 cup of soap to a gallon of water. Use a soft bristled brush to scrub the entire surface. Rinse and pat dry with a lint free cloth to avoid snagging and lint build up on the surface. Do not use chlorine bleach, power washers, or abrasive cleaners. Prior to oiling or sealing, you may gently sand the surface to refresh the color if needed. We recommend a penetrating oil finish such as Star Brite Premium golden teak oil, a tung oil based product that can be applied to all wood types, but may darken wood when applied. Test in an inconspicuous area, if color is a concern. Following these steps every 3-6 months will extend the life of your outdoor wood furniture and keep beautiful.
To further extend the life of your wood outdoor furniture, keep it out of direct sunlight, if possible, and avoid wide swings in humidity and temperature. Wood furniture should be covered when not in use. Never let your wood furniture stand in water. If necessary, small plastic furniture bumpers should be placed under the feet. Finally, just as with indoor furniture and millwork, avoid impact damage to all exterior wood surfaces.